I love sitting out late in the
warm evenings while the mountains slowly surround us with their shadow. I love
to just sit taking in the sounds and the sights of the night.
Once the bee eaters have made
their noisy departure, few sounds break the peace, apart from the cicadas in
the pine trees that create their symphony that ebbs and flows
with intensity through the night. Sometimes, I hear the Scops owls making
their ‘poo..poo..poo’ cry, so characteristic of a Mediterranean summer night. There
is an occasional dog bark or the sound of the Derbyshire birds that greet each
other across the valley with a friendly ‘Hey Up, Hey Up’. That’s right -
peacocks.
In Barranco de Quiles, There are no street
lights to spoil the vista of the Milky Way or the constellations. A multitude
of satellites track across the sky, and I enjoy the sighting of the
International Space Station, that often crosses the valley in a matter of
minutes, looking like a huge lantern. Nothing compares though to the thrill of
seeing the shooting stars.
Every night of the summer the family
of geckos comes to hunt the insects attracted by the dim wall light.
But tonight is a different
night.
Around midnight, at the crown
of the hill, dancing torchlights appear along the narrow road. Soon, I hear
excited voices chattering and laughing in the darkness. The small group come
down the dark lane, and disappears on round the bend. Then another group of
people come along: then another: and another, and soon the barranco is
filled with the sounds of people expecting a party! The fireworks that they
light, erupt into the peace of the night - huge explosions! This is the RomerĂa de Saliente!
These are the pilgrims
heading off to the mountain top monastery and church at Saliente, which at 1501
meters is the highest mountain near us.
Each year, many 100's of people
assemble in the bars of the surrounding towns and villages, discussing their
strategies for the long nighttime walk, and taking the refreshment to help them
achieve their goal!
Then they all converge on the
beautiful 18th century mountain top church, which has been
declared a monument of artistic and historical importance to celebrate in honour
of the 'Virgen of Saliente'. They are joined by many 1000's of other pilgrims
who arrive by car, and then undertake a shorter pilgrimage up the steep path,
to lay thick carpets of flowers all around the alter.
An incredible sight!